One of many reasons I love Mali

First thing after getting through the chaos that is the Bamako-Senou airport, I walked outside to supposedly catch the ride that Peace Corps said they would have waiting for me. Unfortunately, there was no one there to pick me up. So I turned on my Malian cell phone to find out if my ride was going to show up. But wait, my credit was expired, and even though there were plenty of men outside the airport ready and willing to sell me phone credit--I didn't have any money on me. When they understood the fact that I didn't have any local currency there were 3 more men asking me if I wanted to change Euros or Dollars. Oops, didn't have any of those either. This would be the time to say that I was up shit creek without a paddle.

No need to worry though, I wasn't in America. I walked around the parking lot checking all of the white Toyota SUVs trying to find one with the Peace Corps logo until a man came up to me offering his cell phone, "You can call from my phone." I tried...and got a busy signal. "No problem," the man said. "I'll take you home, and you can pay me later."

I had no other choice than to accept the taxi driver's kindness. He helped me with my bags and we got in the car and he pulled away from the smallest international airport I have ever experienced. As all other Malians in Bamako, he was surprised at the fact that I spoke Bambara. After chatting a little and exchanging the standard jokes about each others last name, I told him that I would go to the bank on Monday and he could come by and get the money that afternoon.

We arrived at my apartment and he helped me out with my bags. I was happy to be back, and reminded of the kindness of the majority of Malians. But when I was about ready to grab my bags and head in to the apartment, the cab driver stopped me, "Wait," he injected, "can I give you some money to get you through the weekend?" (Since I arrived on Saturday and couldn't get to the bank until Monday) I wanted to say no, but he insisted that I take some, and when I said 2000 CFA would be fine (the equivalent of 4 dollars) he offered me more. I took the 2000, thanked him, we exchanged phone numbers, and I went inside.

Tuesday he called me, we planned to meet in the afternoon, he came by the apartment and I paid him back with a little interest, and he acted as if I had done him a favor.

I won't generalize and say that all third world countries are like this, but I can say that Mali is a country where people will almost always help each other out. Taxi drivers don't make that much money, but he still had enough to help me out. This is just how it is here, no rewards or honors for helping, and they do so without hesitation.

It was, to say the least, a kind welcome back to Mali.

Transition Part Deux - The Real Deal

I realized that I was lying by calling my last post 'Transition' when all I did was put on some pictures of the Radio opening. I figured that I would bring you the actual news about the transition out of the simple village life into the big city of Bamako. Here's a little list of what's changed:

USED TO HAVE ---- WHAT I HAVE NOW
Hole in the ground toilet ---- 3 western toilets (that actually flush, wow)

Bucket baths with water the temperature of the air ---- 2 Showers with hot water heater
Car battery rigged to work with some electronics ---- Full-out electricity
Camping gas stove ---- 5 range stove top/Oversize Oven (with igniter, which means no more singed arm hair when I turn on the oven)
Straw hand fan ---- 5 High powered ceiling fans
Cement floor ---- Tile floor
Canary cooled water ---- Refrigerator/Freezer cooled water
Monthly internet access (when in Bamako) ---- Daily internet access (when in my Apartment)

I think that I might finally be living above the poverty line if I was in the States, even if my 'income' would indicate that I am below it. Looking at that list from the perspective of someone still living in America, I realize that 'what I have now' doesn't sound all that unique or exciting; however, after two years of living in Tene, it feels like I am living in a Palace.

Transition

So it's been a while, and there's much to say about what has happened in Tene, but I'm feeling a little too lazy to write all about it right now, but I thought I would share the pictures from the radio opening.

Revisiting the Blogospere

I'm spending some time in Bamako right now, to help out with the planning of the training of the new volunteers that are coming in July, then I will be going to play in a soccer match between the Mali and Mauritania volunteers in Mauritania - a nice trip sponsored by the Peace Corps as a part of the plan as the Deputy Director comes to Mali for a visit.
While being in Bamako and having a lot of free time on my hands, I thought I would take a little time to update the Blog. I don't have too much to say right now, and I only have a few new pictures to share, but I should be able to update it more often now.




In terms of news of Mali, all I can say is that things are still moving along very slowly, but moving nonetheless. Here are the updates:

• Radio Station / Resource Center : The antenna has finally arrived and there have not been any problems with money recently. The library was movied into the meeting room (4m. x 6m.) and has been very popular with the kids (since the last location was hot and dirty). The thing that the community is waiting for is for the consultant to show up with the equipment and complete the installation. Then - as I have told the radio group from the beginning - the real work starts.
• Adult Literacy Program : The class with women I originally started is still going strong and we are in the process of expanding the program to include more of the many intersted men and women in Tene. We have been given the old (hot and dirty) library building to use as a classroom to use as the Literacy Center, I just hope it isn't as disagreeable to adults as it was for the kids. We hope to have about 60 students in the program and 2 or 3 teachers.
• Tree Nursery : The training of the workers took place at the end of March and was successful up to this point. They are reaching the end of their "trial planting procedure" and are hopefully going to be prepared to sell some seedlings by the middle of the rainy season.

All in all, I have been happy with the results of these projects, but they just take much longer than expected. In the meantime, I have still been reading and writing, trying to catch up on current events with my two-month-old Newsweeks. I just got back from a vacation in Greece, which I will talk about in more detail soon (hopefully with pictures).